Samsung Washing Machine Error Codes List and Solutions
What Do Samsung Washing Machine Error Codes Actually Mean?
Ever had your Samsung washing machine stop mid-wash and flash a code that looks more like a puzzle than a helpful message? It’s frustrating. You’re just trying to get through the laundry pile—and suddenly you’re dealing with an error like “4C” or “UE” without a clue what to do next, Book service or Call Samsung service centre for help.
Don’t worry, you’re not the only one. These codes aren’t random—they’re your machine’s way of saying something’s off. Sometimes it’s a simple issue you can fix yourself, like a clogged drain or an unbalanced load. Other times, it might point to something more technical that needs a repair expert.
This guide breaks down each common Samsung washing machine error code in plain language. No jargon. No guesswork. You’ll find out what the code means, what may have caused it, and what you can try to fix it—or when to call in a pro.
Let’s decode that display and get your laundry back on track.
Understanding and Fixing Samsung Washing Machine Error Codes
1E / E7 – Water Level Sensor Error
Trouble with detecting water levels usually ties back to a faulty sensor or a loose wire. Unplug the washer, wait a few minutes, and power it back. Still showing? It might be time to replace the sensor.
3E Series (3E / 3E1 / 3E2 / 3E3 / 3E4) – Motor Drive Error
Often related to the motor or control board. Could be as simple as an overload or wiring issue. Restart the washer. If this keeps coming back, it’s best to schedule a service call. Replacing motor parts without experience can make things worse.
4E / 4C – Water Supply Error
This shows when water isn’t filling the drum. Check tap is open, hoses aren’t kinked, and inlet filters are clean. Hard water buildup is a common cause, especially in older homes.
5E / 5C – Drainage Error
Drum won’t empty? Clean the pump filter (front bottom panel). Make sure the hose isn’t bent or clogged. If cleaning doesn’t fix it, the pump might be faulty.
6E – Water Heater Error
You’ll notice the wash cycle not heating. Most likely causes: heating element damage or a faulty PCB. DIY here is risky. Call a technician.
8E – Over Current Error
Too much current detected—turn off your machine. Let it rest. This may be electrical or motor-based. Use surge protection or stabilizer if it happens often.
9E1 / 9E2 – Power Error
Voltage fluctuations again. This one’s common in areas with inconsistent power. Use a voltage stabilizer or check socket grounding.
AE / AC – Communication Error
Occurs when internal boards can’t communicate. Try unplugging for 5–10 minutes. If it returns, internal repairs are needed.
bE Series (bE / bE1 / bE2 / bE3) – Motor Triac Error
Triac issues point to a power control malfunction. Don’t attempt repairs unless you’re trained—it’s tied to the control module.
CE – Cooling Error
Rare, but some models support this. Can show up due to faulty sensor or internal cooling fan failure. Requires diagnosis.
dE Series (dE / dE1 / dE2) – Door Open Error
If the washer won’t start and you see this, first check the latch for lint or obstructions. Try closing the door firmly. If still stuck, latch or sensor may need replacement.
HE Series (HE / HE1 / HE2) – Heater Error
Same as 6E, these errors mean heating issues. Limescale buildup is often behind it, especially with hard water.
LE – Water Leak Error
Detected via a base-level sensor. Check under the washer for water pooling. Using high-foam detergent or overloading can also cause leaks.
OE – Overflow Error
Overflow protection triggered. Usually faulty inlet valve or stuck water level sensor. Turn off immediately and don’t run until fixed.
Sud / 5d – Excessive Suds
Too many bubbles? Use low-suds detergent designed for HE machines. Machine may auto-resume after it clears.
tE Series (tE / tE1 / tE2) – Temperature Sensor Error
Heating sensor fault. If water stays cold despite the settings, or error persists, it’s time for a sensor test or replacement.
UC – Voltage Error
Overvoltage or undervoltage. Can damage PCB over time. Stabilizers help avoid recurrence.
UE / Ub – Unbalanced Load
Happens with mixed laundry (like heavy towels and light clothes). Pause, redistribute load, restart cycle.
DC Series (DC / DC1 / DC3) – Door Error During Spin
Door might look closed but isn’t locked properly. Check the latch and sensor. Restart and reattempt spin.
CL – Child Lock Activated
Controls frozen? This is likely child lock, not an actual fault. To disable, hold “Temp + Spin” (or check your model’s panel guide) for 3–5 seconds.
